Dear Readers,
I'm sharing a post I wrote about Beirut more than two years ago when I visited this historical city with my friend, Angela.
The people we met were warm and welcoming. Beirut charmed us with its history and its vibrant energy. Bullet holes and stunning murals jostled to show off the walls of a city that Faiz Ahmed Faiz referred to as "Beirut: the ornament of our world" in his Beirut poem.
Angela and I exchanged messages yesterday to express our sadness at the turn of events.
I offer this post as a tribute to this jewel of Lebanon which shattered my perceptions and unarmed me of some of my preconceived notions.
Stay safe and well.
Much Love
Arti
xx
Street Art in Gemmayzeh
"What's he doing?""Polishing?"
"They look like spikes."
Angela and I are in Beirut. It's our first time in the city.
We wanted to see each other. The current blockade makes it extremely difficult to visit each other as she lives in Dubai and I reside in Doha. We were looking for nearby destinations. The flights to Beirut looked good to travel on staff rebate.
So here we are, a day after Valentine's, exploring a city both of us have read about in books and in recent news.
We see an old man hunched over a low work bench. He's sitting in a deep chair with armrests with his back to the street, his hands are busy polishing what look like brass spikes.
We carry on walking.
"What do you think he's making?" asks Angela.
"No idea." I confess. "Perhaps he's cleaning them."
Our thoughts linger on the hunched over old man in his grayish bluish coat, peering through his glasses, steadily polishing golden rods (about 6-8 inches long) without looking up, for a few minutes before our eyes spot something interesting-- an achingly old building with a fading facade that hides tales of eras past.
A few hours later, tired but excited about being in Beirut, we decide to head back. Without intention or design, we find ourselves on the same road, in Gemmayzeh. The old man's hands are still busy. This time I spot a table laden with jewellery pieces. I am almost tempted. It's getting late and there's always tomorrow. We hail a taxi and leave.
Next morning, we decide to start our exploration from the other end of Beirut (Hamra). The map, which till yesterday had looked like a puzzle, behaves like a friendly guide. A longish coffee stop and lots of walking later, we find ourselves looking at the old man's table full of jewellery in Gemmayzeh. It's late afternoon and lunch is on our minds.
"These look good." I declare.
In the freshness of a new day and the familiarity of day two in a new city, the area around the table covered in red cloth reveals more of itself. The table is set out on the front pavement of an old Antique Shop. There is a bright light trying to peep through the cloudy glass of the half open doors. The old man is wearing a brassy ring on his left thumb and using a tool with his right when he looks up and smiles.
"Do you make these?" I ask.
"Yes." His voice is clear and warm, like a glass of fresh milk: soothing and full of life. "I make these."
He walks the short distance from the far corner where his low work bench sits, laden with tools and a twisted brassy sheet, over to us and slides the ring off his thumb.
"It says 'my light' (or did he say 'my love'--I'm not 100 % sure) in Arabic." He says in perfect English and holds the ring up so we can see the light enter the calligraphic carvings on the ring.
"You did this?" Angela and I ask him in unison.
"Yes. You can come and make with me if you want." he offers.
I'm not sure I've heard him correctly. Maybe he doesn't mean that. Maybe he wants to say he'll make one for us just like this one.
I'm doubtful. Surely, he's not going to spend his time teaching us! Surely, he's expecting us to buy something. Odd, how easily cynicism overtakes trust. Why are we programmed to veer towards mistrust as our first instinct? Is it evolution (survival of the fittest) or just the way the world has come to be?
I'm doubtful. Surely, he's not going to spend his time teaching us! Surely, he's expecting us to buy something. Odd, how easily cynicism overtakes trust. Why are we programmed to veer towards mistrust as our first instinct? Is it evolution (survival of the fittest) or just the way the world has come to be?
"What's your name?" we ask.
"Michele." He smiles and disarms my canons of cynicism with his grin. "And I'm ninety years old." He beams.
"No!" we almost shriek like teenagers. "Ninety?"
His eyes twinkle a little more brightly. I ask if I can click his picture. Michele obliges like a true gentleman and even poses.
"What's yours?"
"Angela."
"Like the angel." He says and takes Angela's hand while I continue to take pictures. Angela melts in front of me.
Michele looks up and I give him my name.
He squints quizzically at me.
"Like Art with an I...Arti." I offer an explanation.
He nods and smiles and when he finds out that Angela is from England, he mentions Teresa May.
"This world needs more women leaders...no really. Women are smart."
Who would've thought we'd run into a ninety year old male feminist on the streets of Beirut!
"I was watching a programme on TV about ancient Indian architecture recently, it's so good...so good." adds Michele exuberantly when I mention to him that I'm of Indian stock.
"Yes, India is full of amazing art and architecture." I add and nod.
It feels part surreal and part normal to bump into Michele. Human connections such as these is the reason why I love travelling. No monument or museum can live up to simply connecting with another soul. Unless, of course, I'm walking alone in the hills, then I'm happy to be all by myself.
My conclusion, ladies and gentlemen, is that Michele is the most interesting man I've met on my travels in a while. We could've talked the afternoon away, if we wanted to.
"What were you making yesterday?" Asks Angela. "those spike like things..."
"Come inside the shop, I'll show you..." says Michele and wanders towards the glass door.
Loud music is blasting from a corner of the shop. There is stuff everywhere.
"I haven't had the time to clear up..." he offers an apology and sounds like I do when friends drop in and my house hasn't been dusted! "This is what I made with the spikes..." he points to the light and stands next to it with such a big grin that he looks like a six year old who's just got a 10/10 in his math quiz--absolutely delighted with his work.
He squints quizzically at me.
"Like Art with an I...Arti." I offer an explanation.
He nods and smiles and when he finds out that Angela is from England, he mentions Teresa May.
"This world needs more women leaders...no really. Women are smart."
Who would've thought we'd run into a ninety year old male feminist on the streets of Beirut!
"I was watching a programme on TV about ancient Indian architecture recently, it's so good...so good." adds Michele exuberantly when I mention to him that I'm of Indian stock.
"Yes, India is full of amazing art and architecture." I add and nod.
It feels part surreal and part normal to bump into Michele. Human connections such as these is the reason why I love travelling. No monument or museum can live up to simply connecting with another soul. Unless, of course, I'm walking alone in the hills, then I'm happy to be all by myself.
My conclusion, ladies and gentlemen, is that Michele is the most interesting man I've met on my travels in a while. We could've talked the afternoon away, if we wanted to.
"What were you making yesterday?" Asks Angela. "those spike like things..."
"Come inside the shop, I'll show you..." says Michele and wanders towards the glass door.
Loud music is blasting from a corner of the shop. There is stuff everywhere.
"I haven't had the time to clear up..." he offers an apology and sounds like I do when friends drop in and my house hasn't been dusted! "This is what I made with the spikes..." he points to the light and stands next to it with such a big grin that he looks like a six year old who's just got a 10/10 in his math quiz--absolutely delighted with his work.
"You made this?" We sound like we don't really believe him.
"Yes, and I'm making these to send to my son in Canada. He will use them to make another light like this one." Michele points out the spikes we'd seen him with the previous evening.
If I ever reach ninety, please God, let me be like Michele--working with my hands, open to strangers, warm and kind and curious like a two year old.
I spot a pair of swirly earrings on the table when we step out of his shop. I consider getting them for a friend but decide to wait till I explore a bit more and perhaps come back the next day.
"We should buy a cake for him and go see him again." suggests Angela as we polish off our vegan lunch at the Sursock museum cafe a couple of hours later.
We couldn't stop talking about Michele after we bid him goodbye: while eating lunch we wondered about him, throughout that evening we discussed his kind eyes and warm smile and even later that night we pondered aloud to each other:
Imagine the stories he'd have to tell.
What all must he have seen in his life.
He must've put the music that loud so he could hear it outside.
How amazing for us to come across someone like him...
and on and on.
The one regret I have is that we decided to postpone our cake with Michele idea to the next day.
Rain and wind and grey skies welcomed us the next morning. We went to the shop. It was shut. It was our last day in Beirut. Our flights were scheduled to take off that evening.
Sometimes, cakes should be bought and shared as soon as the idea enters our hearts--for one never knows if there will be another tomorrow.
I don't have Michele's number or address. But if anyone in Beirut is reading this and knows him, please give him our love and heartfelt thanks for infusing our weekend trip with his generous smile.
Facades cover buildings, like faces cover souls--what is that old saying again? Never judge a book by its cover.
Better still, never judge.
There were many such kind and helpful humans in Beirut who we encountered in restaurants, shops and even at the farmers market selling their delicious vegan wares. If you're thinking of going to Beirut, I'd say, if you can, then just go.
Leaving you with a few eclectic shots of facades that caught my eye on the day after Valentine's in the city of Beirut.
This reminder of 'James and the Giant Peach' (as Angela pointed out) is an old movie theater.
The oft-photographed colourful steps on Armenia Street of Beirut
May this beautiful city and its people find the strength to deal with their losses.
May their hearts heal and may their smiles return soon.
