Showing posts with label history. Show all posts
Showing posts with label history. Show all posts

Friday, 25 August 2017

A Chennai full of stories.

Can you recall the first stories you were told? Did they come from books or from hearts? Were you tucked in bed or sat on a lap? Was it on cold winter nights or on warm summer days?
All of my first stories sprung from my grandparents: Beji and Papaji and a couple from my father.

A veritable mismatched pitara (treasure trove) of Krishna's antics, Rama's principles, the horrors of 1947 partition, the sweetness of the fruit that grew in their garden in Shinkiari in North West Frontier (now in Pakistan) mixed with faint memories of Beji-- of when as a little girl, she visited the tall Buddhas of Bamiyan (which are no more). She couldn't remember if someone in her family took her with them or told her stories of the tall Buddhas but she spoke as if she'd been there herself. Maybe she'd travelled in the descriptions she'd heard.

Stories hold that power: the power to transport you in time and space, in memory and in sense, in smell and in taste, in touch and and in feelings. Stories are like the threads of a tassel that bind us together as a family, a community, a country, a people, a history, a nation, a race and humanity. Stories trickle down traditions, read across pages of epics and race down memories. They escape lips and sound out that which we know has always existed within us as carriers of this cosmos, but love to be reminded of our place, our destinies, our heritage and our aspirations anyhow.

The distance between birth and death is as long as a story.

But don't be fooled into thinking that your story is separate from mine or that each one of us can package our own individual story in a neat little box and tuck it away. No, sir. Our stories are all tangled together, entwined and connected. We may be bouncing in our own private orbits and we may think that what we see and experience is unique to us and doesn't effect others, or vice versa, but in the end the trampoline of cosmos we're bouncing on is the same for all of us. Our actions send out ripples that go on and on--so it is important that we pay close attention to how we conduct our lives.

I digress. Sorry. So to Chennai...
Last month, on an early morning walk in Doha, Ambika mentioned that she'd be travelling to Chennai for work. 

She's a friend and a surgeon and she'd been asked to lecture/conduct workshops etc. at Chennai, Madurai and Tanjavore.

"Can I tag along?" I asked shamelessly. The cities she had just mentioned have been on my ever growing bucket list and I couldn't resist this opportunity.

"Of course."

The flights looked okay. That was that. I plunged into research to ensure my Tamil Nadu adventure would be a fruitful one.

Friends who live locally were contacted. Google was put in top gear.

I kept Dr. A informed of  the itinerary that was taking shape. She's a busy surgeon with just enough time to sleep at night. I'm a self professed traveller living off of my husband's salary, who can even take afternoon naps. 

"This adventure is beginning to  sound like Thelma and Loiuse." texted Ambika one day after I'd found a great home-stay off the beaten track.

"I like Ambika and Arti better." I texted back.

"Besides, I'm not planning to end like Thelma and Louise--not done with my travelling yet." I thought to myself. I didn't type that.

Instead, smiley emojis were exchanged. Bags were packed, flight boarded and we were off.

Thanks to a recommendation sent by Shefalii of Photoconcierge, we started our Chennai adventure with a walking tour conducted by Akila Raman of Story Trails

Trust me, you've got to experience it to know how amazing it is. We started at four in the evening  and ended at seven.  I can honestly say that those were the best three hours of story-magic I've ever experienced. 

Akila's passion for the place, her knowledge and her melodious voice all came together to take us on a journey that started on a hot July afternoon is bustling Mylapore in 2017 and after meandering through stories of Shiva, Parvati and their two sons and the one about the treaty signed by the Muslim kings who own the land on which sits the temple tank as well as the one about the pink saree that Mother Mary is adorned with at Mylapore Church, it ended with a strong cup of filter coffee and dosa. If I ever have a chance to visit Chennai again, any tour by Akila will be the first thing I'll add to my itinerary.

Akila told us so many wonderful stories and with such skill that I didn't feel like an audience. I was that little girl again-- the one who'd sit next to Beji on her clean kitchen floor and listen. And Beji would  open the portal of time and space and I'd watch Kanha steal butter. As if by magic, I'd become a character in Beji's stories. That's exactly how I felt that evening in Chennai. Thank you Akila and thank you Shefalii.

Spiritual pondering inside Kapaleeshwara temple:



Why did the chicken cross the road?
To enter the temple.
 Preparing for a festival. Story telling through dance and drama and all the colourful props.

Shakti worships Shiva. Yes, she's the peacock...it all links back to ancient texts and legends--stories as old as humanity.
Parvati and Shiva temples are adorned with red and white stripes. 
Perhaps, like the lingams, the colours hint at  the feminine and masculine energies of the universe.
Why do people whisper in Nandi's ear? 
Because he has the power to reach Shiva even if the latter is in the deepest meditative state.
And I thought secretaries are a modern invention!
Legends and beliefs aside, I whispered a little prayer of my own. 
If and when it comes true, I will let you know.
Akila with her audience:)
By the time we stepped out of the temple, the hot sun had decided to descend. 
The temple tank
The setting sun lights up the houses opposite the tank.
We had the privilege of entering the temple priest's house with Akila.
The shots that follow are from inside his home.
9 yards of silk and brocade hangs in the courtyard:

Earth can yield--lamps, bricks, pillars and slabs--same source but such different lives.
 Street food: served with love.
 The beautiful church in Mylapore.
It was built on the tomb of Saint Thomas and is known as San Thome Basilica.
It is a Roman Catholic minor basilica
Mary in pink.
I saw this rose on the floor of the temple priest's house and wondered how it got there?
Was it in a garland?
Was a woman wearing it in her hair?
Did someone leave it there on purpose?
And just like that, a story started taking shape.
That's how easy they are--these stories of our lives.
But remember this: we are the authors of our stories--no one else. It's only us. Always us.
And if we choose to play the victim, then it's our choice.
For my part, I choose to be the hero of my story--every time--
no matter what drama is unfolding around me.

What about you?
What's your story looking like this morning?

Monday, 3 April 2017

B is for Bhunga(s) of Banni #AtoZChallenge

"Belief in oneself is one of the most important bricks in building any successful venture." 
Lydia M. Child
When Apu, my travel guru and guide, mentioned that we'd be staying in a bhunga in Kutchh, I found myself mouthing the word again and again. Try it -- say bhunga aloud (the u sounds like it does in put). How does it sound to you? To me, it sounded like the buzzing of a bee. The song 'Bhumro, Bhumro' kept popping in my head. 

Bhungas are circular mud huts.

This was in February of 2017. But before we slept in one, we saw a few bhungas on our way to the Runn of Kutchh. The road trip was tailored around visiting as many villages in Kutchh as possible to see the artisans and craftspeople I'd heard so much about. The thing that struck me the most was that Kutchhis don't create beautiful objects just to sell, they live in them, they wear them and they decorate their homes with them. Their earthy wisdom is palpable in everything; from their beautifully dressed children to their elegantly decorated homes. No sir, no one in the family's ever been to an Art school.

"They have divine grace in their fingers." said the guide at Calico Museum when she showed us pieces of Kutchhi handiwork. And I agree. Everything they create shimmers with their proximity to their roots, their earth and their mud.
 When the ceiling is so colourful, can you imagine how warm the people who live in these bhungas must be?
This is a shop in a bhunga. The village women use Ajrakh fabric to make quilts and bedspreads with  running stitch (all done by hand).
The men sell these and other hand embroidered wares like bags and cushion covers.
Perfectly balanced colours and composition
We stayed at the Gateway to Runn Resort This resort is run by the villagers of Dhordo. The place is beautiful BUT a word of warning: go easy on the chachh (buttermilk). We had a few cases of tender tummies in our group!
I couldn't resist using this 'bird on a bhunga' shot on my 'B' day:) 
Plus, it's one of my only bird shots that looks decent.

The people of Kutchh are hardworking and proud. Every Kutchhi I met, whether he was a weaver or a housewife who embroiders or a herdsman who works as a waiter in a resort during high season has these qualities. 
The older ladies may not be able to read and write, but they rule. 
She is the matriarch who sells her wares with immense charm and gentle persuasion.
When you look into those eyes, you know she doesn't need any meditation class to find her peace. She lives and works and in her free time she creates beautiful patterns with threads and needles and fabric and mirrors.
The quote I used to start this post describes the spirit of the  people of this region perfectly. If you read about their history, the climatic changes faced by them and the earthquakes that destroyed so much so many times, you'll find that the men and women of Kutchh are great builders and weavers and embroiders because they believe in themselves, their art, their land, their people and their heritage.

I want to be like them when I grow up.

What's the one thing you've done (recently or not so recently) with your hands to make your home more beautiful? 
I'd love to find out:)

Check out Architectural wonders to find out more about Bhungas and the people of Kutchh from Banni region.

I'm tempted to promise a post about their colourful clothing...it's a C you say? I know! 
But I'm travelling and the Internet may not be on my side, so we'll see. 
Ciao for now:)




Saturday, 10 December 2016

Petra portraits -- of humans, animals and stones


It's been too long.

I've missed you. Let's meet soon.

Does the first weekend in December work for you?

How about Petra?

Done.

Just over a week ago, Angela and I found ourselves, bathed and ready, waiting for the door that led to the breakfast buffet to open at 5:55 am. The doors opened at 6 sharp and we entered. This was a first for both of us, waiting for a restaurant door to open for breakfast. Angela had another first to follow -- her first time in Petra. This was my second time in 7 years but this time I 'd brought my blogging eyes with me, i.e. my camera.

Going through 500 plus clicks to pick just enough to give you a feel of the place but not spoil the surprise for those of you who are planning to visit Petra in the not so distant future, turned out to be an enjoyable and tedious task. Reliving those magical moments (and there were lots of them) has put a song in my heart and even though the kitchen sink is full of unwashed dishes and there's no sign of dinner, I'm humming a happy song.

Come, feel the sun on the ancient rocks.

See how each layer, sediment and pigment lights up under the blue sky.

Lose yourself in the kohl rimmed eyes of the charming Bedouin men who flirt with you with such confidence and charm that you can't help but smile back.

Sip sweet sage tea offered by Bedouin women who show you pictures of their children on their phones and whose skin glistens and eyes smile.

And just like the clip-clop, clip-clop of the hooves on stones laid down almost 3000 years ago by the Nabataean tribes fades when the animals cross over to the sandy patches in this ancient land, dissolve in the silence of the stones.

Listen with your eyes.

And let the silence of all those who've walked these parts before us keep you company...

These pictures are in no particular order. I surrender to this wonder and let Petra show me the way...with just a few words, I promise, just the bare minimum...



Monsieur Camel, they whispered. 
 Ahmed, our guide.

 This is Hassan. He sells silver bracelets.
Saw him cleaning the Siq on our way back.




Look up!


The 450 year old tree.
Straightened her red jacket, she did...as she caught sight of us wielding camera and phone:)

A rich man's cave, joked Ahmed, with two car garage:)
 Audi and his donkey, Michael Jackson
And we walked into an Asterix comic strip; as if the obelisks around weren't enough.

Made in India:)

That's a fully grown man in the foreground-- the Monastery.




Fifteen year old Mohammed whose family lives in the Bedouin village, down in the valley. 
He sells snacks in this shop and sleeps in a cave nearby as it's not practical to go back home everyday.
 



Fix roofs, add solar panels and then breathe-- inhale, exhale.
 Camel caravan...his legs wrapped in toga and the camel's belly become one with stone and history.

Art's never far...bought a portrait...will share another day.
Sad eyes, happy laugh.

clip-clop...clip-clop

Silent stones
and 
eyes
that speak volumes
tug at you;
at the bit in you
that was there when light first touched earth
the bit that feels the connection
of air and ether
 of the cosmos within
and human history on show.


Hope to see you soon.

Have a wonderful weekend.